Renaissance and early modern period History of clothing and textiles

renaissance europe

bold floral patterned silks, 15th century.

wool remained popular fabric classes, followed linen , hemp. wool fabrics available in wide range of qualities, rough undyed cloth fine, dense broadcloth velvety nap; high-value broadcloth backbone of english economy , exported throughout europe. wool fabrics dyed in rich colours, notably reds, greens, golds, , blues.

silk-weaving established around mediterranean beginning of 15th century, , figured silks, silk velvets silver-gilt wefts, increasingly seen in italian dress , in dress of wealthy throughout europe. stately floral designs featuring pomegranate or artichoke motif had reached europe china in previous century , became dominant design in ottoman silk-producing cities of istanbul , bursa, , spread silk weavers in florence, genoa, venice, valencia , seville in period.

as prosperity grew in 15th century, urban middle classes, including skilled workers, began wear more complex clothes followed, @ distance, fashions set elites. national variations in clothing increased on century.

early modern europe


slashing @ height: henry iv, duke of saxony, c. 1514.



a french reinterpretation of spanish fashion, elaborate reticella ruff, 1609

by first half of 16th century, clothing of low countries, german states, , scandinavia had developed in different direction of england, france, , italy, although absorbed sobering , formal influence of spanish dress after mid-1520s.

elaborate slashing popular, in germany. black increasingly worn formal occasions. bobbin lace arose passementerie in mid-16th century, in flanders. century saw rise of ruff, grew mere ruffle @ neckline of shirt or chemise immense cartwheel shapes. @ extravagant, ruffs required wire supports , made of fine italian reticella, cutwork linen lace.

by turn of 17th century, sharp distinction seen between sober fashions favored protestants in england , netherlands, still showed heavy spanish influence, , light, revealing fashions of french , italian courts.

the great flowering of needlelace occurred in period. geometric reticella deriving cutwork elaborated true needlelace or punto in aria (called in england point lace ), reflected scrolling floral designs popular embroidery. lacemaking centers established in france reduce outflow of cash italy.

according dr. wolf d. fuhrig, second half of 17th century, silesia had become important economic pillar of habsburg monarchy, largely on strength of textile industry.